LIGHTEN
IT UP
Local chefs reinvent
your favorite foods.
by Jennifer Burklow
Tucked into a cozy garden-level space in a high-rise at 21 West Goethe in Chicago, Mario’s Gold Coast Ristorante is the type of neighborhood spot that inspires customer loyalty, and in turn, loyalty to its customers.
Chef-owner Mario Stefanini has been serving up Italian favorites in this casual restaurant — where folks are comfortable dining solo at the 15-seat bar —for over 11 years.
“I grew up in this business and came back to it when I saw the opportunity that existed in the Gold Coast. The neighborhood needed a restaurant where they [residents] could eat at once a week,” he says. “It needed a casual Italian restaurant that people could walk to. . .”
Mario’s welcomes diners to its 25 tables with fresh bread, olive oil and Parmesan cheese once they’ve been seated—something to whet their appetites as they peruse the menu. “We have a nice wine list and we pour a neighborhood drink,” Stefanini adds. And though he’s busy in the kitchen, Stefanini makes it a point to check the dining room and mingle with his customers.
Adapting to changing palates
Key to Mario’s longevity is Stefanini’s sensitivity to his clientele’s changing palate, and today that means offering lighter fare. Stefanini is quick to emphasize that Mario’s is not a health food eatery saying it’s a classic Italian restaurant that gives diners the choice “to be naughty or nice.” Mario’s offers everything from a grilled vegetable platter all the way to a full-blown Five Cheese Lasagna
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with Italian sausage on the side. He says, “the choice is up to the diner”.
“I’m here at least five nights a week and I love to eat here,” Stefanini says. Just like in Italy — you’re eating what the owner enjoys.
No Trans Fats
To lighten things up “I eliminated all trans fats from the menu,” he says. “even our fried calamari is prepared in canola oil. We don’t use any hydrogenated oils. We only use canola oil, olive oil and butter. We feature a different whole-wheat pasta every week. Most pasta dishes are vegetarian, but if you want sausage and meatballs [with pasta] you can get it.”
In addition to a different whole-wheat pasta each week. Mario’s also features weekly fish or seafood, soup and appetizer specials.
Cooking methods are another way Stefanini lightens up his menu.
“One of the most popular dishes is grilled calamari, which out sells the fried,” he says. “We make traditional Italian [dishes] but we lighten it up. Our Chicken Parmesan is grilled instead of fried. The neighborhood demands that we cook lighter, so I’ve adjusted my menu.”
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Seafood and fresh fish are also popular at Mario’s. Grilled Salmon and Orange Roughy are always on the menu with Mahi-Mahi, Tilapia , Sea Scallops and other types of fish showing up as specials.
Stefanini lightens up the menu other ways, too. “All the chicken is boneless, skinless breast, the Steak Vesuvio is filet and our veal is excellent; it’s light, it’s good,” he says.
“The main thing is we’re trying to do new things on the menu. We are known for our appetizer pizzas; it’s the thinnest pizza in the city. The whole 10-inch pizza has only 45 grams of carbs.”
No Smoking
The best thing Stefanini has done to make his restaurant friendlier to the health conscious is to eliminate smoking entirely, a full 2 years before he has to do so under Chicago’s recently implemented smoking ordinance. “People are stopping me and thanking me,” he adds. “No place else in the Gold Coast is totally smoke free and business has never been better.”
“No smoking, elimination of trans fats and some healthier, lighter specials are our signatures right now,” Stefanini says proudly, “and you can still get a good drink.”
Whole Wheat Primavera Aglio Olio
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